THE
RAMP
PAGE
2 Steel
Pipe
Skating
Surface
ATTACHING STEEL PIPE COPING
-Framework
RAMPS AND ACCESSORIES
-Rollout Deck
Last month we covered that all-important first layer of plywood.
This month we will look at how to get your ramp skateable and other
items of finish work.
A solid ramp is not skateable until at least two (preferably more)
layers of plywood have been applied as described in last month's
column, the second, third and each successive layer should be al-
ternated or criss-crossed when applied. It will be a lot easier to apply
the second layer and each layer after that, but keep in mind that you
must line up all the sheets so that they are parallel and fit well to-
gether. Again, use lots of sheet rock (drywall) screws to hold this
layer down. Try not to align the seams of the second layer directly
over the seams of the first. In fact stagger it as much as possible for
maximum strength.
Jimmy Murphy launches over perfect pool
coping at a farm rap in Blemore, New Jersey.
Photo: Wesley Boxe
Once you've got the desired layers of plywood on your ramp you
should paint or weather seal the surface. The pounding of Winter
rain and scorching of Summer sun, not to mention the tons of snow
on some poor ramps can deteriorate wood fast. For those who have
limited resources, you may want to skip this next section, but in most
cases a little preventive medicine in the form of surface protection
will go a long way to preserve your riding surface.
I'm going to discuss a few ramp protection methods. One method
now being used involves applying water sealant to the layer directly
beneath the top layer, then coating the top layer on both sides and
edges with sealant and allowing everything to dry at least 24 hours
before applying the top layer to the ramp.
This method works well with masonite and will keep water from at-
tacking the top layer from behind during wet winters.
I talked with my surfacing expert, the creator, Mike Chantry, and
he suggested that the best way to make your plywood or masonite
top layer superfast and ultradurable is to use SPAR urethane. His
technique is to apply two light coats then one heavy coat, allowing it
to drip into all the cracks and seams of the surface layer. About three
cans will do the job on a 16' wide ramp and it will provide an unreal
ride-fast and smooth. The Creator also suggested using his
newest approach for the ultimate in ramp surfacing. This can be an
expensive route but if it is done right, you may not have to resurface
your ramp for years. The trick is in applying " thick masonite
shower wall on top of a solid layer of masonite or very smooth, high
grade plywood. Shower walling is a thin, easily bendable, epoxy-
coated masonite that is 100% waterproof, and requires no screws or
nails to apply. There are dozens of surface designs available in any
bathroom supply section at any hardware store. To apply this won-
der surface you will need ample amounts of exopy-base glue, such
as linoleum glue, or any strong industrial adhesive. Slap liberal
coats onto each sheet and press with a rolling pin (or other flattening
device) into place on top of your top layer. Remember, this is a sur-
facing technique, NOT another support layer. Shower wall will not in-
crease the strength of your ramp at all. You must make sure your un-
derplys are very strong and smooth before applying shower wall.
Once applied, you will have the hardest, fastest, most impregnable
surface known at this point in ramp construction.
All the above is fine if you have the resources, but if not, at least
roll a few coats of oil-based stain all over your structure. Let it soak
in good where the wood touches the ground. To prevent termites
and rot, you may want to spray Creosote around your ramp and in
the back under the transition lumber. For the real low budget, a good
exterior oil-based paint coat or two on the whole ramp will fend off
mother nature for a while.
Now that your ramp is protected, you're going to ride, but wait, you
should have some form of coping to protect the lip of the ramp. PVC
coping has its advantages and disadvantages. It's good if applied
right because it will shield the plywood ends from rain water seep-
age, but the damn stuff breaks under any kind of harsh situation, so
all-in-all I think PVC coping is inferior. A much better coping which I
have been using for years is 2" diameter steel piping. It's strong.
much slicker than PVC, and never wears down or flexes. It's much
easier to apply too. Just drill holes through the ends and screw a
large wood screw through the top ramp support brace through each
of the holes. The ultimate is pool coping if you can obtain it. In
Skaterville, there is a place that sells blocks for $2 apiece, so look
around. Before applying any coping, it is advisable to somehow
shield the exposed edges of plywood at the top of your ramp with
aluminum gutter stripping or a suitable substitute as an added pre-
caution against rainwater seepage between layers.
In the February issue the importance of good rollout decks was
emphasized in the Ramps and Accessories article. Make the rollout
decks strong and big in area, and as flush to your coping as possi-
ble; coat them with a protectant as well. Once you have completed
this, your ramp is finished and ready to skate.
Taking the proper preventive measures against weather, impact,
abrasion and other natural (or unnatural) forces will insure you a
long lasting, highly shreddable ramp riding surface.
Build strong and skate long!!
RAMP BUILDERS
-Craig Ramsay
THRASHER now has available a "ramp rag" to help you construct
the ultimate skating ramp. This little 'zine is packed with plans,
diagrams, materials lists and photos, everything we've ever printed
concerning Ramp Construction, and a lot more. Send $.00 to:
THRASHER Ramps, P.O. Box 24592, San Francisco, CA 94124.
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