ABOVE: Tony Hawk at the "Pop Ramp" in North San Diego county. Notice how this 12
ft. wide structure was built in two sections side by side. Photo: Grant Brittain.
Tom "Leech" Putman describes his Paxton, Massachusett's ramp as a "a jigsaw
puzzle of scavenged and scrap wood" but its features include 12 of width, 10' of flat
and a 9' high with PVC coping, a two foot vert extension and a roll-in (in need of a
layer of plywood). Photo by Tom Lowe on Dec. 31, 1982.
The Fort Monmouth ramp, complete with side ramps
and a kink in the transition. Photo by Jeff Hartsell
5. PLYWOOD APPLICATION
Again, start at the bottom and work up.
Center a full sheet in the middle of the flat
bottom section and secure with a nail in
each corner. Using nails sparingly at this
point is important because if you have to
take up the plywood for any reason it will
be much easier. Also, wood screws are
recommended for attaching the plywood
because screws will not pull out as easily
as nails. When applying the plywood to the
transitions, have a couple of people stand
on the wood to help bend it into a tight fit
and secure with enough nails to hold it
down until you can go back with screws.
(FIG. 4)
The thickness of the plywood you use
may depend on availability, %" thick is
easy to bend, although two layers are
recommended for strength. If you will be
using a thicker stock, it is a good idea to cut
parallel lines, about half the thickness of
the wood, on the underside of the sheet to
facilitate bending.
6. ADDITIONS AND
ACCESSORIES
The key to a shreddable ramp lies not
only in the transitions but also the coping or
lip that you use. There are many materials
that can be used for coping (broomstick,
2"x4", PVC pipe, and metal pipe). What-
ever you use is up to you. But it is a good
idea to put some kind of edge on your
ramp.
Another feature that will improve your
ramp is a rollout deck on either side. By
simply adding to the framework of the
ramp you can build a 4 foot wide platform
at the top of each wall. They may be used
for roll-outs, drop-ins and other deck tricks,
and will also add strength to the ramp.
7. PAINTING
Now that you've completed the basic
structure, you may want to session on it for
a few days to make sure everything came
together properly. But before too long you
should think about painting the ramp to
preserve the wood and prevent cracking
due to weather.
Your basic enamel (water base) exterior
paint works best because it soaks in and
dries fast. You should apply two thin coats
rather than one thick coat, letting the first
one dry before applying the second. This
will prevent the surface from becoming
slippery.
Now you are ready to conduct full-on
sessions on your very own skate structure.
Remember, this article is just a general
guideline to constructing a ramp. Any
resourceful person can easily find ways to
cut costs and save time, but hopefully this
will give you an idea of what's involved in
building a sizeable skate ramp.
-K. Thatcher, from an
article originally written
by Mike Folmer
THRASHER
BELOW: Mike McGill demonstrates why you should build extra
strength into the transition of your ramp on this bio fakle ollie on
his own ramp In Florida. Repeated landings from aerials and
handplants tend to 'soften' up the transition areas on a ramp,
making it slower. Photo: Joe Ryan.
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