RAMP
RAISING
1. BOTTOM FRAMEWORK
Since this is where your strength and
sturdiness begins, 4'x4's are recom-
mended here, but 2'x4's will work. Lay
down your 4"x4's in a rectangular box long
enough for your transitions and flat bottom
16' x 27' for a ramp with 10' flat bottom and
two 8' radius transitions. Brace with 2'x4's
space 6 inches apart under the flat section
and about a foot apart under the transition
areas. Place the 2'x4's in the frame with 2"
side facing up and flush with the top of the
4'x4's. The 2'x4's will also act as a solid
base for connecting the plywood to the flat
bottom section. (SEE FIG. 1)
Fig. 1
To save time, use the first transition that
you've cut out as a template for the other
transition pieces you will need. Or, apply
the string/compass method using a large
piece of cardboard instead of plywood. By
doing this, you'll have a lightweight pattern
that is easy to handle for tracing and
insures that each transition is the exact
same radius.
3. CONNECTING TEMPLATES
TO FRAMEWORK
To connect the transition templates to
the bottom framework, start by placing a
4"x4" in each corner of the rectangle. The
height of the 4'x4's will be determined by
the amount of vertical you want. Connect
the 4'x4's with a 2"x4" across the top and
nail the plywood templates to either side of
the structure. (SEE FIG. 3)
The Groves, Texas halfpipe was one of the stops on the Texas Backyard Circuit. A basic
example of your standard 16' wide, 10' flat bottom ramp.
RAMP BUILDING
Several important steps should be taken even before construction of your ramp begins.
Round up your skate crew and without getting too technical, I will discuss some important
stages in pre-planning your ramp. First off, you must find a site to build on. This is not only
important from a legal point of view (yes, some cities do have ordinances and height
restrictions on backyard construction check). It may also determine the type of ramp you
will be building. Ideally, you will want to build on a fairly large, flat cement surface such as a
patio or parking lot, but a relatively level dirt or grass area will work fine.
Your second area of pre-planning should be obtaining wood and other building materials
that you will need. Unless you have 20 to 30 sheets of plywood lying around or a large stack
of 2'x4's you will probably end up spending between $400 and $500 on wood alone.
Plywood isn't cheap and 2'x4's aren't just lying around, but there are ways of obtaining some
free wood. First check your own backyard woodpile for boards and ask friends and neighbors
if they have any. Also, hang around the local construction site and beg for cut-off ends and
various scraps, every little bit helps.
Other planning decisions might include the transition radius from flat to vert. I've found that
an 8 or 9 foot radius is perfect for a fluid yet thrustable transition. You will definitely want to
consider a flat bottom between walls. Flat bottom gives you more speed and more set-up
time from wall to wall. From 10 to 15 feet of flat is recommended for an unreal ramp. There
are other considerations such as width (the wider the better), coping, and roll-out decks, but
these will come later. Right now, your main concern is getting the basic structure put
together.
In this case, the basic structure I will be referring to is the standard, state-of-the-art, 16 feet.
wide, 10 feet high with 8-foot radius transitions and 10 feet of flat bottom. There are several
reasons why these dimensions are used for the majority of ramps we are seeing built today.
One is that plywood sheets measure 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, and 2'x4's studs come in
lengths of 8 feet and 16 feet. Another reason is that a ramp any smaller than the one
described above is going to seem too small and limited for full-on sessioning. I would suggest
a ramp with 15 to 20 feet of flat bottom and 32 feet wide (at least) as being the ultimate.
However, the basic 16 feet wide by 28 feet (from coping to coping) is well within the average
skate-starved person's budget as well as knowledge of carpentry.
Throughout the article I will bring up suggestions of more advanced construction methods.
that may be of some use to heavyweight woodchucks who want to build the ultimate
superstructure.
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2. TRANSITION TEMPLATES
The strength of plywood standing on end
is many time greater than when lying flat
and is the key to a sturdy ramp. For a
perfect 8' transition, take a piece of string
and tie one end to a pencil, the other to a
nail or stake in the ground. Pull the string
taut and draw an arc on a sheet of
plywood. By using a ½ sheet set down
next to the full sheet you should be able to
draw one whole transition. (SEE FIG. 2)
Using a sabre saw, cut out these sections
being careful to stay right on the pencil line.
This is where the smoothness of your ramp
begins.
SCRAP
4.8.4
PLYWOOD
Fig. 2
WARNING: Always use extreme caution when
using power tools. Wear eye protection, secure
loose clothing, and never use electricity around
water. If you can't handle it, get someone with a
knowledge of basic carpentry skills to help out.
4. TRANSITION BRACING
AND SUPPORT
2'x4's will be used to support the
plywood skating surface. Start at the
bottom of the transition by placing a 2"x4"
between the templates with a 2" side
facing out and flush with the plywood
forms. Work up through the bottom of the
transition, placing a 2"x4" every 6 inches
and secure with two nails on either side. A
2"x4" every 12 inches in the upper and
vertical sections of the ramp will provide
enough strength and support in those
areas. (SEE PHOTOS 1 & 2)
If you are using 8 ft. long, instead of 16
ft. long 2x4s for the cross bracing, then you
will need two transition pieces, side by
side, in the middle of each wall of the ramp.
Basically, what you're doing is building
two, 8 ft. wide ramps side by side and
connecting them with the plywood skating
surface.
NOTE: For extra strength, especially in
the transition area, notch out the pattern,
and cut with a saber saw), so that your 2x4
cross beams fit into the notches and are
flush with the transition.
Photos 1 and 2. A basic 8' wide ramp under construction. Notice the placement of the cross
beams and extra transition supports.