RAMP WORLD
Welcome to Ramp World, the guide to applied carpentry, featuring host, master hammerhead Tim Payne. This month's
episode covers the gambit of woodworking techniques, from strobstacle shims to metal on minis and vert. By the sound of
that Skil saw, it must be time to start, so grab a template, put on your safety glasses and get a move on. Address all terrain
questions to Tim Payne, Thrasher Magazine, P.O. Box 884570, San Francisco, CA 94188-4570.
Smoothing your
street-to-ramp
seam with a strip
of 1/8" sheet
metal (above) can
spell the differ
ence between
thrash and crash.
If you have the
funds, go all the
way and cover
your entire ramp
with metal. Wood
is cheap but it
just
doesn't compare
to the smoothness
of steel. It may
take extra work,
dough and phone
calls, but as they
say in the
carpentry biz,
"Build strong.
skate long."
22 THRASHER MAGAZINE
TEMPLATE
STREET REPAIRS
I don't know how
many times I've seen
people approach a
street ramp or bank,
and have their wheel
bite into the plywood
where it meets the
ground. They get pitched into the transition or right over the
ramp and onto their face. This kind of thing can ruin your day
and take the fun out of having a ramp. You probably can't afford
to layer your whole street area in metal, but you can use a small
strip of flexible steel at the bottom of every ramp. When building
a street area, I cut the transitions, using two layers of 1/2" CDX
(rough) plywood and one layer of 1/4" tempered Masonite
on the surface. You can get away with using a 12"
sheet of metal, but, I would suggest using 16" at
the bottom. The metal is usually about an 1/8"
thick, so use an 1/8" shim underneath the
metal to bring it up flush with the Masonite.
If you do it right and make the metal just
touch the ground, you don't even
feel a bump at the bottom. Drill
five holes across the top and five
holes 4" down from the top (see illustra
tion at right). Countersink the holes and
screw the metal to the plywood.
SURFACE GRADES
21"
I've got a mini-ramp and the surface wood is splintering like all
heck. The bottom layer is 1/2" and the riding surface is 1/4"
They are both made from top-o-the-line plywood. I was just
wondering if 1/2" ply is better for the surface, since less flex
equals less splinters? Or, should I go with metal, Plexiglass, or
something else?
J.S.
Kalamazoo, MI
If you're set on using plywood, try and get ahold of Cana-
dian plywood. Paul Schmitt used that on some of his ramps
and they were real strong and lasted a long time. It's not the
thickness that matters-1/2" or 3/8" is good for a surface-
but the grade of the wood. You don't want to use CDX for
the surface; you want to use AC, DC or Canadian plywood.
Shine Plexiglass. Since you live in Michigan and it snows
there, metal will last longer. Too bad you don't live in Call-
fornia; you could just use Masonite.
PAINT STAKING
Would applying thin coats of paint not only to the surface, but
to the templates before cross-brace application, the first/second
flat/transition layers, and the cross-braces themselves make the
ramp more weather-tolerant and stronger than just painting the
surface? Why not paint the pieces before assembly?
Anthony Carrasco
Denver, CO
You get an A+ for thinking ahead. Definitely, anything you
paint will last longer-water will not soak into the wood and
it won't flex or warp as much. For your last coat on the rid-
ing surface, make sure you soak the wood with several thin
coats to help hold it together. If you just put a thick coat on
top, the paint will harden and peel off. Then you'll have big-
ger and worse splinters than you would have had without
using paint. Ask Blaize Blouin about that one-he got a big
shard in the foot one time, right through his shoe.
STEEL BASICS
I'm going to build a mini-ramp and I'm thinking about sheeting.
it with metal. I was wondering where to buy 4'x8' metal sheets.
how much they cost, how thick they should be and how to fasten
them to the ramp?
Todd Hoton
Duxbury, MA
For a vert ramp it is good to use 12 or 10 gauge, and for
minis you can get away with using 14 gauge. Look in the
Yellow Pages under "Metal" (Sheet Metal, Metal Fabri-
cation, Used Building Materials). A 4'x8'
sheet will probably run between $30
and $50, depending on whether you
get raw or galvanized metal. Galvanized
metal is more expensive per sheet, but it
does not rust and you don't have to prime
it, you can just paint it with surface paint.
You have to clean raw metal with mineral
spirits and then paint it with primer paint
before you put surface paint on it. The drawing
below details how to space your screws. The best
way is to drill the base hole with a regular 7/16" drill
bit, then get a big 3/8" bit and countersink it just enough
for the head of the screw. You want to use good wood
screws with flat, flanged heads. I use drywall grabber
screws, galvanized for outdoors-2 are fine, 2.5" are even
better. It is best if you can hit the studs.
8
8
Proper drilling pattern for 4'x8' metal sheeting.
HELP WANTED
I find ramp building fun, but sometimes stressful when things
don't work out. I'm writing to ask, is there a large demand for
ramp builders?
Robert Householder
Custar, OH
Yeah, there's a large demand for the ramps I build, but if I
catch you takin' any jobs from me, I've got your name and
address and I'll come over to your house and put a lump on
your head!
-Tim Payne
9.325 x 32.5
CLARKES
vert is out.
omar hassan
new from the fools at acme the SUPERPLY a vertical laminate
core board designed for harsh vertical skating. what a hot idea.
acme
Serving The needs Of All Skaters
P.O.BOX 1696 NEWPORT BEACH, CA. 92663